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Author Topic: '64 Ford F100  (Read 27790 times)
NCHKustoms
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« Reply #285 on: August 20, 2012, 06:36:54 PM »

Now its really short! I wanna do that!  thumbs up
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« Reply #286 on: August 20, 2012, 08:19:45 PM »

now thats wicked,,way kool on all the shops mister batman
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« Reply #287 on: August 24, 2012, 11:22:00 PM »

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Coroner
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« Reply #288 on: September 28, 2012, 07:33:16 PM »

So the funny noise my truck is making.. its the guide plates for the pushrods. They are both rubbing. Eeep! Its not too bad though. Its running good enough to head to Frankensteiners! Woo!  clap
Also.. No overdrive.. Sometime in late October or November, going back to have the tranny pressure tested to see whats up Smiley
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« Reply #289 on: September 29, 2012, 01:02:01 AM »

Ah. guide plates makes sense...

Glad that's figured out at least. Smiley
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« Reply #290 on: September 29, 2012, 03:56:43 PM »

Bear with me...Since the guide plates don't move, I assume you mean something is rubbing on the guide plates.  It had better be the pushrods!  The pushrods need to be hardened pushrods.  Stock pushrods won't live with guide plates, and the shavings coming off the pushrods are headed to your main bearings.  

If you already have that covered, and if the rockers are rubbing on the guide plates, the towers the screw-in studs for the rockers weren't milled enough.  A few early 289 heads already had screw-in studs...but 302/351W heads don't and need to have...uh...0.331 (I think) milled off before you finish drilling and threading the holes for the screw-in studs.  If you only take off .25 there may be a problem.  

3rd possibility:  How did you determine the required pushrod length?  With screw-in studs and guideplates, the pushrod length MAY change.  Last thing:  You might reset the lash when the engine is hot.  Sounds gruesome.  Sorry to talk about screwins.

Last minute add-on...maybe you have a partially collapsed lifter or two???  Or is it solid (or solid roller) lifters?
« Last Edit: September 29, 2012, 03:59:05 PM by OldMusher » Logged
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« Reply #291 on: September 29, 2012, 09:41:34 PM »

Whew! gettin deep here!

OK, Yeah the pushrods are rubbing the guide plates, they are hardened pushrods also. Wasnt any metal shavings or anything in the oil when i did my first oil change on it so thats good! So hardened pushrods.. should those be ok with a little rubbage? Otherwise what we are thinking is take the guideplates back out and widen em up a milimeter or so. Sooo first step, covered Smiley

Next thing,,
No rubbing from the rockers for sure! Plenty of room there. These heads i have on it were off a '69 Mustang 302 block. When i got them they had just the push in style studs on them, had them taken out and had some screw in ones put in, that way i could use my roller tip rockers. I think that much is safe too Smiley


3rd thing..
The pushrod length was determined by putting the heads back on the block and taking a measurement. I cant recall what length that they are, but i do know that the length did change compared to stock.

Ill have to remember all of the above things ya pointed out and talk to Mr. Motor Builder Man when the time comes to fix some stuff Smiley

Annnnnd its roller lifters  thumbs up

Thanks alot for the input!! Much appreciated!!  clap
 


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« Reply #292 on: September 30, 2012, 04:03:38 PM »

Almost there:  If you chose springs that are bigger in diameter than your stock springs (dual springs?) the little pad where the springs hit the heads needs to be machined to match.  Round outer spring but flat inner spring in a ford is usually 1.46" in diameter.  Slightly bigger than stock.  Round outer spring and round inner spring will be in the 1.50's.  Stock diameter may be less than 1.30.  Early heads have small chambers, and you can get good compression.  Buy octane booster by the case.  Big springs sitting on a too-small machined spot might wobble a bit and allow rubbing.

If you do get the early 58CC chambers and get some pinging, here's what I do:  Take each chamber and put an old intake valve in place with a spring/retainer.  Put the tiny rotary grinder tip (tapered) and carefully work off some material next to the intake valve edge to "un-shroud" the intake flow  Don't leave a sharp edge anywhere.  If you carefully make the 8 intakes equally un-shrouded you might end up with a 60cc chamber, less likely to ping.  There are also "fat" head gaskets to allow you to manipulate your chamber volume.  This will really help if you are using bigger than stock valves.  I've also seen that area "spot faced in the machine process to open it up a little.  Stock ford heads have too-small exhaust ports.  The port is shaped like an upside down "L"  The floor is the "short side" and the roof is the long side.  If you port them yourself, take a big off the short side right in the middle of the bend, as much as you want to off the long side, and wider never hurts.  If you have an old head, you can sawzall it apart and see how much iron is around the ports.  If you take off more than .125" anywhere, you need to know where the "thin" spots are.  With stock heads, they'll still be too small, but every little bit helps.
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NCHKustoms
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« Reply #293 on: September 16, 2013, 08:21:04 PM »

What happened to this really cool truck?
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NCH Kustoms-Custom Painting Since 2008
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« Reply #294 on: September 17, 2013, 08:15:10 PM »

Its a unicorn.
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« Reply #295 on: September 19, 2013, 10:34:10 AM »

I just read this whole thread, interesting. So is this truck still up and going?
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« Reply #296 on: September 22, 2013, 09:42:23 PM »

Its still kind of alive.. after tons of burnouts and beating around.. the motor went by by and same with the rear end x3 and tranny x2 haha. It now has a new motor and getting the tranny put in. Its been at a shop just north of rush city since... january! wtf. hopefully home soon by october fingers crossed. Its super fun to drive! I really miss it  Sad
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NCH Kustoms-Custom Painting Since 2008
www.thench.com
.................................____
.................__________|___\_____
..;.;;.:;:;.,;.|__(O)____|____/_(O)|

Proud Ford Granada owner
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