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 21 
 on: March 19, 2017, 12:34:15 PM 
Started by Goldem763 - Last post by Goldem763
So couldn't remember the password for my old account so here I am with my new one lol everyone knows me by the red foxbody lol

 22 
 on: March 16, 2017, 05:24:09 AM 
Started by Mrs. Hillbilly Les - Last post by Mrs. Hillbilly Les
Not so Funny Noises:
Noise from the engine:
Noise:  Squealing. Source - loose or worn drive belt.
Noise:  A hum or whine that gets louder at times. Source - Alternator or water pump or even power steering pump.  The noise gets louder as you turn the wheel.
Noise:  Deep rhythmical thumping or thudding. Source - this is bad news.  The engine's main or rod bearing is the likely source.
Noise:  Soft rhythmical slapping that may stop as engine warms up.  Source - This is called piston slap, it's okay as long as it goes away when the engine is warm.
Noise:  Snapping or clicking along with rough running or loss of power of engine.  Source - electrical arcing in the distributor cap or spark plugs and wires.

Noise from tranny or drive train:
Noise:  Whine or howl when in park or neutral.  Source - Damaged hydraulic pump in the tranny or torque convertor.
Noise:  Loud clicking as the steering wheel in front wheel drive is turned.  Source - Faulty constant velocity or in short terms, CV Joint.
Noise:  Howl or whine only when accelerating or decelerating.  Source - Dry or damaged differential gears and bearings.

Noise from brakes.
Noise:  Grinding.  Source - this could be brake dust trapped in pad or your brakes need to be replaced as they are metal to metal.
Noise:  Squeaking.  Source - this could be one of a few things.  The warning clip telling you your brakes need to be replaced or a loose brake pad or glazed packs.
Noise:  Chattering brakes when applied.  Source - Broken brake pads or rotors, or drums that are no longer round or have high spot.



 23 
 on: February 13, 2017, 06:33:10 AM 
Started by NCHKustoms - Last post by Mrs. Hillbilly Les
AND Ill get some photos too if i can remember how to do it.


And...photos?   Wink

 24 
 on: December 27, 2016, 03:10:20 PM 
Started by NCHKustoms - Last post by Krandall
So a little update... i finally got the rear suspension taken out.  After a few more cutting wheels and some grinding. It took a little time but all of the mounts for the old leafs are gone. Cut out the old motor mount blah blah blah. Next step! Sandblast time!

I also finally ordered the front suspension. I called up FabQuest from NV and the guy was super awesome! (Dave) He sounded like a California surfer dude hahaha. But anyways, it comes with a new crossmember, tranny mount, adjustable coil over shocks, 12" Wilwood brakes with drilled and slotted rotors, motor mounts for the 351w, power rack, new steering column and the rag joint/set-up. I cant wait for it to show up!!  

I also realized that the new box side that showed up was from an 8' box.. crap.. oh well.. i guess ill have to do some trimming! yay!! Cool


HEADBANG HEADBANG HEADBANG HEADBANG HEADBANG
:cn:

 25 
 on: December 27, 2016, 03:09:35 PM 
Started by Mrs. Hillbilly Les - Last post by Krandall
The model 2280 two barrel carburetor is standard on many '78-'79 Chrysler 318 engines.  It's also a replacement for 1962 and later Chryslers with a 273 and 318 motor; it also replaces the Rochester 2GC cards on '64-'73 Chevy's with the 283, 307, and 327 motors and on the '68-'69 Buicks.  Air flow capacity is 255 CFM.  The 3-piece aluminum design has metric metering jets and a gradient power valve and has a SAE 1 1/4 throttle body flange. 

And that's your tech tip from Mr. Hillbilly (a.k.a. Ralph Meyer)

and those carbs are EVERYWHERE

 26 
 on: December 23, 2016, 02:03:51 PM 
Started by Mrs. Hillbilly Les - Last post by Mrs. Hillbilly Les
The model 2280 two barrel carburetor is standard on many '78-'79 Chrysler 318 engines.  It's also a replacement for 1962 and later Chryslers with a 273 and 318 motor; it also replaces the Rochester 2GC cards on '64-'73 Chevy's with the 283, 307, and 327 motors and on the '68-'69 Buicks.  Air flow capacity is 255 CFM.  The 3-piece aluminum design has metric metering jets and a gradient power valve and has a SAE 1 1/4 throttle body flange. 

And that's your tech tip from Mr. Hillbilly (a.k.a. Ralph Meyer)

 27 
 on: December 19, 2016, 07:36:33 PM 
Started by NCHKustoms - Last post by NCHKustoms
So a little update... i finally got the rear suspension taken out.  After a few more cutting wheels and some grinding. It took a little time but all of the mounts for the old leafs are gone. Cut out the old motor mount blah blah blah. Next step! Sandblast time!

I also finally ordered the front suspension. I called up FabQuest from NV and the guy was super awesome! (Dave) He sounded like a California surfer dude hahaha. But anyways, it comes with a new crossmember, tranny mount, adjustable coil over shocks, 12" Wilwood brakes with drilled and slotted rotors, motor mounts for the 351w, power rack, new steering column and the rag joint/set-up. I cant wait for it to show up!! 

I also realized that the new box side that showed up was from an 8' box.. crap.. oh well.. i guess ill have to do some trimming! yay!! Cool


 28 
 on: December 08, 2016, 06:19:52 AM 
Started by Mrs. Hillbilly Les - Last post by Mrs. Hillbilly Les
Trouble Shooting Hard Start Ups:  Check for weak battery, excessive moisture on high tension wiring and spark plus, cracked distributor cap, defective coil or condenser, worn ignition breaker points, coil to distributor high tension, cable not in place, loose connections or broken wire in low tension circuit, incorrect point gap or bad spark plugs.  Check gap on spark plugs, check for loose connections, oil soaked wiring.  Also check for bad or cracked distributor cap and rotor misfires can happen if timing is off, bad spark plugs, cap rotor or wires.  And for popping or spitting, check timing or carb settings, weak fuel pumps, fuel pressure regulators and fuel filters.

Your tech tip,
From Mr. Hillbilly

 29 
 on: December 07, 2016, 05:52:39 PM 
Started by NCHKustoms - Last post by NCHKustoms
Picked up another 1964 F100 a few months back from a guy about 20 minutes away. The truck originally came from Montana. It didnt have an engine.. looked like it had been sitting for quite sometime. When he had it it was stored inside but it was still filled with dry leaves and sticks.. whatever fell on it haha.

My goal is to have a really sweet truck that i can have forever.. I want to take my time and make sure everything is put together well. Looking to have a nice comfy ride.. yet wanting to have some fun on winding roads too!

So.. I begin..

I started taking it apart about a month ago now.. tore off the front clip and found tons of leaves, Montana dirt and a small rust hole in the core support. No biggy! The truck came with a second front clip! Seeing as the fenders on the original front clip had rust holes the size of a softball and were a little banged up..

Next was the box.. took the bolts out.. took the bumper off.. that was the easy part.

Next was the cab.. Un-did the steering and removed the steering wheel. Took off the doors. Lifted the cab off.. smashed my finger.. the usual.. Continued on taking the other random things apart on the cab, headliner.. dash.. gas tank.. there was no seat, one lesss thing to worry about Smiley  Cab also needs cab mounts and a small peice of floor on each side.. which i know when i bought it.. passenger side needs a cab corner also.

I picked up a 'new' passenger side door about a month ago from a guy in Blaine, MN who had it on a parts truck he was parting out. Its nice! Except for the holes where the trim once was. Those will get filled.

I FINALLY found a box side on eBay a few weeks ago too, since the passenger side of the box looked like it had been sideswiped at some point in its life.. Those things are hard to come by! I couldnt find a whole box.. at least not in my budget.. so just a side is fine. I bought it from a guy in Portland, OR. 3 weeks ago and it finally showed up this last Monday! YAY!!

Next thing I tore apart was the front suspension.. Out with the I-Beam!! Out with the drum brakes!! No leafs!! The brackets for the leaf springs were kind of a pain.. they used huge rivets. Must have been 3/8" or 1/2"? Im not sure i didnt measure.. a few cutting wheels and grinding disks later, front is off!!

Im going to try and tackle the rear end this weekend and remove the crusty 9" and leafs.. more cutting and grinding..

Hopefully in a few weeks i can finally get a somewhat 'dry' weekend and haul the thing to get sand blasted.

Also in a few weeks I am looking to order the front suspension and hopefully the rear at the same time.

What im thinking about getting is a TCI brand Mii front suspension and a TCI brand 4 link in the rear.. I was once thinking of Heidts.. BUT I saw TCI offers free shipping and both kits are pretty similar and i can still get the good upgrades like wilwood 12" brakes, coil over shocks and power rack like i was hoping.
 
A few months out im planning on ordering some new shoes for the rig as well. Looking at US Mags. Going to go with 18" all the way around with 9" wide rims in the front and 12" wide in the back.

And i still havent decided yet.. powder coat or paint the frame.. hmmmmm probably paint. Its more in my budget.. haha

That about sums it up for now! Ill try to keep somewhat current on here! AND Ill get some photos too if i can remember how to do it.

Thats all, stay tuned!
   thumbs up 

 30 
 on: November 02, 2016, 06:16:27 PM 
Started by Mrs. Hillbilly Les - Last post by Mrs. Hillbilly Les
FOR SALE:  Allis Chalmers B, 1939 or so.  See posting on Craigslist http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/grd/5858597699.html

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