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 21 
 on: March 30, 2017, 08:03:34 AM 
Started by Goldem763 - Last post by Krandall
lol

Oh man. Welcome back good sir! clap Cool

 22 
 on: March 19, 2017, 12:45:50 PM 
Started by 327 mustang - Last post by Goldem763
Little update for everyone

 23 
 on: March 19, 2017, 12:34:15 PM 
Started by Goldem763 - Last post by Goldem763
So couldn't remember the password for my old account so here I am with my new one lol everyone knows me by the red foxbody lol

 24 
 on: March 16, 2017, 05:24:09 AM 
Started by Mrs. Hillbilly Les - Last post by Mrs. Hillbilly Les
Not so Funny Noises:
Noise from the engine:
Noise:  Squealing. Source - loose or worn drive belt.
Noise:  A hum or whine that gets louder at times. Source - Alternator or water pump or even power steering pump.  The noise gets louder as you turn the wheel.
Noise:  Deep rhythmical thumping or thudding. Source - this is bad news.  The engine's main or rod bearing is the likely source.
Noise:  Soft rhythmical slapping that may stop as engine warms up.  Source - This is called piston slap, it's okay as long as it goes away when the engine is warm.
Noise:  Snapping or clicking along with rough running or loss of power of engine.  Source - electrical arcing in the distributor cap or spark plugs and wires.

Noise from tranny or drive train:
Noise:  Whine or howl when in park or neutral.  Source - Damaged hydraulic pump in the tranny or torque convertor.
Noise:  Loud clicking as the steering wheel in front wheel drive is turned.  Source - Faulty constant velocity or in short terms, CV Joint.
Noise:  Howl or whine only when accelerating or decelerating.  Source - Dry or damaged differential gears and bearings.

Noise from brakes.
Noise:  Grinding.  Source - this could be brake dust trapped in pad or your brakes need to be replaced as they are metal to metal.
Noise:  Squeaking.  Source - this could be one of a few things.  The warning clip telling you your brakes need to be replaced or a loose brake pad or glazed packs.
Noise:  Chattering brakes when applied.  Source - Broken brake pads or rotors, or drums that are no longer round or have high spot.



 25 
 on: February 13, 2017, 06:33:10 AM 
Started by NCHKustoms - Last post by Mrs. Hillbilly Les
AND Ill get some photos too if i can remember how to do it.


And...photos?   Wink

 26 
 on: December 27, 2016, 03:10:20 PM 
Started by NCHKustoms - Last post by Krandall
So a little update... i finally got the rear suspension taken out.  After a few more cutting wheels and some grinding. It took a little time but all of the mounts for the old leafs are gone. Cut out the old motor mount blah blah blah. Next step! Sandblast time!

I also finally ordered the front suspension. I called up FabQuest from NV and the guy was super awesome! (Dave) He sounded like a California surfer dude hahaha. But anyways, it comes with a new crossmember, tranny mount, adjustable coil over shocks, 12" Wilwood brakes with drilled and slotted rotors, motor mounts for the 351w, power rack, new steering column and the rag joint/set-up. I cant wait for it to show up!!  

I also realized that the new box side that showed up was from an 8' box.. crap.. oh well.. i guess ill have to do some trimming! yay!! Cool


HEADBANG HEADBANG HEADBANG HEADBANG HEADBANG
:cn:

 27 
 on: December 27, 2016, 03:09:35 PM 
Started by Mrs. Hillbilly Les - Last post by Krandall
The model 2280 two barrel carburetor is standard on many '78-'79 Chrysler 318 engines.  It's also a replacement for 1962 and later Chryslers with a 273 and 318 motor; it also replaces the Rochester 2GC cards on '64-'73 Chevy's with the 283, 307, and 327 motors and on the '68-'69 Buicks.  Air flow capacity is 255 CFM.  The 3-piece aluminum design has metric metering jets and a gradient power valve and has a SAE 1 1/4 throttle body flange. 

And that's your tech tip from Mr. Hillbilly (a.k.a. Ralph Meyer)

and those carbs are EVERYWHERE

 28 
 on: December 23, 2016, 02:03:51 PM 
Started by Mrs. Hillbilly Les - Last post by Mrs. Hillbilly Les
The model 2280 two barrel carburetor is standard on many '78-'79 Chrysler 318 engines.  It's also a replacement for 1962 and later Chryslers with a 273 and 318 motor; it also replaces the Rochester 2GC cards on '64-'73 Chevy's with the 283, 307, and 327 motors and on the '68-'69 Buicks.  Air flow capacity is 255 CFM.  The 3-piece aluminum design has metric metering jets and a gradient power valve and has a SAE 1 1/4 throttle body flange. 

And that's your tech tip from Mr. Hillbilly (a.k.a. Ralph Meyer)

 29 
 on: December 19, 2016, 07:36:33 PM 
Started by NCHKustoms - Last post by NCHKustoms
So a little update... i finally got the rear suspension taken out.  After a few more cutting wheels and some grinding. It took a little time but all of the mounts for the old leafs are gone. Cut out the old motor mount blah blah blah. Next step! Sandblast time!

I also finally ordered the front suspension. I called up FabQuest from NV and the guy was super awesome! (Dave) He sounded like a California surfer dude hahaha. But anyways, it comes with a new crossmember, tranny mount, adjustable coil over shocks, 12" Wilwood brakes with drilled and slotted rotors, motor mounts for the 351w, power rack, new steering column and the rag joint/set-up. I cant wait for it to show up!! 

I also realized that the new box side that showed up was from an 8' box.. crap.. oh well.. i guess ill have to do some trimming! yay!! Cool


 30 
 on: December 08, 2016, 06:19:52 AM 
Started by Mrs. Hillbilly Les - Last post by Mrs. Hillbilly Les
Trouble Shooting Hard Start Ups:  Check for weak battery, excessive moisture on high tension wiring and spark plus, cracked distributor cap, defective coil or condenser, worn ignition breaker points, coil to distributor high tension, cable not in place, loose connections or broken wire in low tension circuit, incorrect point gap or bad spark plugs.  Check gap on spark plugs, check for loose connections, oil soaked wiring.  Also check for bad or cracked distributor cap and rotor misfires can happen if timing is off, bad spark plugs, cap rotor or wires.  And for popping or spitting, check timing or carb settings, weak fuel pumps, fuel pressure regulators and fuel filters.

Your tech tip,
From Mr. Hillbilly

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