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#51
Car Discussion / Re: 87 mustang notch build
Last post by Goldem763 - March 30, 2017, 05:27:46 PMHaven't been around much lately
#52
Car Discussion / Re: 87 mustang notch build
Last post by Krandall - March 30, 2017, 09:07:16 AMHoly crap. Why haven't I had a ride in that? O___O
#53
New Here? / Re: Tyler here
Last post by Krandall - March 30, 2017, 09:03:34 AM
Oh man. Welcome back good sir!
#54
Car Discussion / Re: 87 mustang notch build
Last post by Goldem763 - March 19, 2017, 01:45:50 PMLittle update for everyone
#55
New Here? / Tyler here
Last post by Goldem763 - March 19, 2017, 01:34:15 PMSo couldn't remember the password for my old account so here I am with my new one lol everyone knows me by the red foxbody lol
#56
Car Discussion / Re: Hillbilly Tech Tips by Mr....
Last post by Mrs. Hillbilly Les - March 16, 2017, 06:24:09 AMNot so Funny Noises:
Noise from the engine:
Noise: Squealing. Source - loose or worn drive belt.
Noise: A hum or whine that gets louder at times. Source - Alternator or water pump or even power steering pump. The noise gets louder as you turn the wheel.
Noise: Deep rhythmical thumping or thudding. Source - this is bad news. The engine's main or rod bearing is the likely source.
Noise: Soft rhythmical slapping that may stop as engine warms up. Source - This is called piston slap, it's okay as long as it goes away when the engine is warm.
Noise: Snapping or clicking along with rough running or loss of power of engine. Source - electrical arcing in the distributor cap or spark plugs and wires.
Noise from tranny or drive train:
Noise: Whine or howl when in park or neutral. Source - Damaged hydraulic pump in the tranny or torque convertor.
Noise: Loud clicking as the steering wheel in front wheel drive is turned. Source - Faulty constant velocity or in short terms, CV Joint.
Noise: Howl or whine only when accelerating or decelerating. Source - Dry or damaged differential gears and bearings.
Noise from brakes.
Noise: Grinding. Source - this could be brake dust trapped in pad or your brakes need to be replaced as they are metal to metal.
Noise: Squeaking. Source - this could be one of a few things. The warning clip telling you your brakes need to be replaced or a loose brake pad or glazed packs.
Noise: Chattering brakes when applied. Source - Broken brake pads or rotors, or drums that are no longer round or have high spot.
Noise from the engine:
Noise: Squealing. Source - loose or worn drive belt.
Noise: A hum or whine that gets louder at times. Source - Alternator or water pump or even power steering pump. The noise gets louder as you turn the wheel.
Noise: Deep rhythmical thumping or thudding. Source - this is bad news. The engine's main or rod bearing is the likely source.
Noise: Soft rhythmical slapping that may stop as engine warms up. Source - This is called piston slap, it's okay as long as it goes away when the engine is warm.
Noise: Snapping or clicking along with rough running or loss of power of engine. Source - electrical arcing in the distributor cap or spark plugs and wires.
Noise from tranny or drive train:
Noise: Whine or howl when in park or neutral. Source - Damaged hydraulic pump in the tranny or torque convertor.
Noise: Loud clicking as the steering wheel in front wheel drive is turned. Source - Faulty constant velocity or in short terms, CV Joint.
Noise: Howl or whine only when accelerating or decelerating. Source - Dry or damaged differential gears and bearings.
Noise from brakes.
Noise: Grinding. Source - this could be brake dust trapped in pad or your brakes need to be replaced as they are metal to metal.
Noise: Squeaking. Source - this could be one of a few things. The warning clip telling you your brakes need to be replaced or a loose brake pad or glazed packs.
Noise: Chattering brakes when applied. Source - Broken brake pads or rotors, or drums that are no longer round or have high spot.
#57
Pics/Vids of cars / Re: 1964 Ford F100 (Pretty Fly...
Last post by Mrs. Hillbilly Les - February 13, 2017, 06:33:10 AMQuote from: NCHKustoms on December 19, 2016, 07:36:33 PM
AND Ill get some photos too if i can remember how to do it.
And...photos?
#58
Pics/Vids of cars / Re: 1964 Ford F100 (Pretty Fly...
Last post by Krandall - December 27, 2016, 03:10:20 PMQuote from: NCHKustoms on December 19, 2016, 07:36:33 PM
So a little update... i finally got the rear suspension taken out. After a few more cutting wheels and some grinding. It took a little time but all of the mounts for the old leafs are gone. Cut out the old motor mount blah blah blah. Next step! Sandblast time!
I also finally ordered the front suspension. I called up FabQuest from NV and the guy was super awesome! (Dave) He sounded like a California surfer dude hahaha. But anyways, it comes with a new crossmember, tranny mount, adjustable coil over shocks, 12" Wilwood brakes with drilled and slotted rotors, motor mounts for the 351w, power rack, new steering column and the rag joint/set-up. I cant wait for it to show up!!
I also realized that the new box side that showed up was from an 8' box.. crap.. oh well.. i guess ill have to do some trimming! yay!!
#59
Car Discussion / Re: Hillbilly Tech Tips by Mr....
Last post by Krandall - December 27, 2016, 03:09:35 PMQuote from: Mrs. Hillbilly Les on December 23, 2016, 02:03:51 PM
The model 2280 two barrel carburetor is standard on many '78-'79 Chrysler 318 engines. It's also a replacement for 1962 and later Chryslers with a 273 and 318 motor; it also replaces the Rochester 2GC cards on '64-'73 Chevy's with the 283, 307, and 327 motors and on the '68-'69 Buicks. Air flow capacity is 255 CFM. The 3-piece aluminum design has metric metering jets and a gradient power valve and has a SAE 1 1/4 throttle body flange.
And that's your tech tip from Mr. Hillbilly (a.k.a. Ralph Meyer)
and those carbs are EVERYWHERE
#60
Car Discussion / Hillbilly Tech Tips by Mr. Hil...
Last post by Mrs. Hillbilly Les - December 23, 2016, 02:03:51 PMThe model 2280 two barrel carburetor is standard on many '78-'79 Chrysler 318 engines. It's also a replacement for 1962 and later Chryslers with a 273 and 318 motor; it also replaces the Rochester 2GC cards on '64-'73 Chevy's with the 283, 307, and 327 motors and on the '68-'69 Buicks. Air flow capacity is 255 CFM. The 3-piece aluminum design has metric metering jets and a gradient power valve and has a SAE 1 1/4 throttle body flange.
And that's your tech tip from Mr. Hillbilly (a.k.a. Ralph Meyer)
And that's your tech tip from Mr. Hillbilly (a.k.a. Ralph Meyer)